Royal Seed Hybrid Tomato Series | Part 2 of 4

Getting Started: Nursery to Transplanting

Nursery Establishment

Hybrid tomato seeds are more expensive than open-pollinated seeds because of the breeding investment behind them. Nursery management is therefore critical — poor nursery practices waste expensive seed and delay the entire season.

•       Prepare fine seedbeds or plug trays — trays are preferred because they reduce transplant shock

•       Use sterilised nursery mix (1 part soil : 1 part compost : 1 part sand) to prevent damping-off

•       Sow seeds 1-1.5 cm deep, one seed per cell or 5 cm apart in seedbeds

•       Water gently morning and evening — waterlogging kills seedlings within 48 hours

•       Apply thiram or mancozeb drench at 7 days to prevent fungal damping-off

•       Harden seedlings by reducing shade and irrigation 5 days before transplanting

Seedlings are ready for transplanting at 4-6 weeks when they have 4-5 true leaves and stems 6-8 mm thick.

Transplanting and Spacing

Transplanting in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day reduces transplant stress. Water the nursery thoroughly 2 hours before lifting seedlings.

•       Row spacing: 60 cm

•       Plant spacing: 45 cm

•       Dig planting holes 15 cm deep

•       Apply 10 g DAP per hole and mix with soil before placing seedling

•       Water immediately after transplanting and daily for the first week

Proper spacing ensures good airflow that reduces late blight risk — the biggest yield-killer in Kenya's wet highlands.

Fertilizer Programme for Royal Seed Hybrids

High-yielding hybrids require more nutrition than open-pollinated varieties. Under-fertilising a 55 t/ha potential variety produces 25 t/ha yields — and farmers blame the seed, not the programme. 

Pro Tip: Boron deficiency is a common but often overlooked problem in Kenyan tomato farms. Boron is required for pollen tube development and fruit set. Apply foliar boron (e.g., Solubor at 1 g/litre) at first flower bud appearance and repeat at full flowering.

Next in this series: Part 3 — Defending Your Crop: Pests and Diseases

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